AURA

Had Coronado been looking for copper instead of gold, Bisbee and Jerome would have been lucky finds. Copper is what attracted mining companies and the laborers they needed to these two hilly spots. But from a high population mark of 25,000 in Bisbee and 15,000 in Jerome, once the copper ran out, so did the people, such that at present Bisbee the population is down to 6800, Jerome 400. Less than 3% of the residents stayed in each place when the mines closed. It was even less in both until the realization hit that these are pretty places where cheap digs can appeal to hippies, artists, and retirees.

Scenic beauty that attracted the activities of artists is what draws tourists to both these places. Bisbee is kind of off the beaten track, and so gets only about a third as many tourists as Jerome, even though Jerome’s population is only about 6 % of Bisbee’s. Jerome lives or dies by tourism, and has managed to survive partly because of being near to upscale cool getaways from Phoenix like Clarkdale and Sedona, and because when Jerome’s last mines closed in 1953, some of the 200 remaining die-hards formed the Jerome Historical Society to call attention to its history with a museum and its quaint appearance. Tourists to Jerome number over a million a year, versus Bisbee’s 300,000.

Heading north on I-17 from Arcosanti, the road you get to after awhile is AZ260. But before heading west on it towards Jerome, go about another 4 miles to Montezuma Castle to see how the Indians built an apartment building into a cliff. This is definitely worth it if you don't plan on going to Chaco Canyon. Then head back south to AZ260 and then head west to AZ89A that takes you through Clarkdale to Jerome. You'll know you're there when you go up a steep incline noting homes, lodging and eateries on your left, and very soon the heart of Jerome with its galleries etc. The heart is small, so stopping anywhere will put you in the center of things. If you must see the gouges in the earth that previous residents labored to create for the sake of lighting up the night with copper wire and such, ask someone to point.

The most beautiful way to the Canyon from Jerome is to backtrack on AZ89A to Sedona where artsy outdoor cafes await. Having been charmed by the red rocks and all the gallery-going you require, if it's a hot day and especially if you don't intend to penetrate the Grand Canyon all the way to the Colorado River, proceeding farther north on AZ89A to slide rock is your special chance to cool off. Here you can have the fun of literally sitting down in the stream on slide rock and letting it carry your body till you’re in sync with nature. You will thus be well prepared for the steep winding continuation of AZ89A to I-17 and ultimately Flagstaff.

The quickest way to the Canyon from "Flag" is to jump on I-40 west to north on Arizona 64 that zooms you straight north to a Canyon entrance. But if you've got a little extra time for a detour, instead keep going north from Flag via US 89 that takes you to US 160 east to Tuba City to see what Mars looks like to the NASAnauts, then hang a U back down via US 89 to Arizona 64 west so that as you drive to the east entrance to the Canyon you can check out what the Indians have for sale by the roadside along the way.

● Jerome's history

● Overview

● Jerome State Historic Park Intro, Hours

● Fees and map

● Directions

● 10 day weather forecast