AURA

Words fail. Even watercolors . . . .

Aptly named. How do you communicate a sensation. I don’t know. Sine said I can see how the light and the rock are the same. To think that somebody else can see that, too… Well, we’re here to tell you what we can put into words. So...

Havasupai Indian legend has it that a phantom emerged from an underworld tribe here and liked what he saw. That’s how Phantom Creek, which flows into Bright Angel Creek here on the floor of the Grand Canyon, got its name, so they say. What began in 1902 as a private tourist lodge has, under a succession of owners and names, come to be known as Phantom Ranch, maintained by the National Park Service.

You could get here by car, I suppose, if they got dropped from passing airplanes, but I’m happy to say not even the helicopters buzz this area. So far you get here only by foot, mule, or boat. Most people walk down on Bright Angel Trail that was originally built in 1891 to provide access to mining claims. So greed led to something nice for once anyway. The trail follows switchbacks through the Redwall Formation to the Indian Garden Campground and Inner Gorge. Then it goes east along the river to the Bright Angel Suspension Bridge and on to Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel Creek Campground. The nineteen mile round-trip descends 4400 feet and takes most hikers two days, though some people who like to mix beauty with exertion like the challenge of actually running or jogging down and then back up. None of us are quite that insane.

Overnight mule trips depart daily from the stone corral at the head of Bright Angel Trail. The ride down takes 5 ½ hours, the ride up, 4 ½, probably because riders entering the Canyon for the first time like to pause and look, or snap photos, though I suppose the mules having to resist sliding on the way down once in awhile probably slows things down a bit too.

White water river raft trips end here, leave from here, or stop over here, depending.

Though quite old and humble and rustic, the ranch offers lodging and dining nobody complains about. Camping and a canteen are available. Mule trippers bunk overnight in cabins. Backpackers stay in dormitory style lodging. Meals are by reservation before you start down, lodging about a year ahead. I guess they’ve even started a lottery there’s so much demand for the lodging.

The canteen is what I've used since I’m not into reservations and all that.

Sine added some links I told him about if you’re interested.

● Official website

● What I am . . .   (lyrics)

● 7 day weather forecast